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That's such a common saying: Just be present, live in the moment. But there's actually really something to it when you really start to learn it.

The best version of surfing is not competing, I think. It's just... it's perfect. You're perfectly present. You're perfectly in the moment. You're perfectly not thinking about anything else in the world. You're just surfing. You're surfing away with your friends or your family, and that's it. You're just there.

I'd be in elementary school all week, and then on the weekend, my mom would take us to Kauai or to the Big Island or to California for a contest. That was really fun.

You just keep doing stuff, and one thing evolves into another. Then suddenly it's like, 'Oh, wait, I'm here surfing against Kelly Slater and all these guys I grew up watching.'

I still get scared every time I go out. I get scared taking off; I get scared on the wave, falling, everything. But, you know, growing up with it, I guess you're a little more comfortable.

You go to a contest, and it's like, 'OK, I'm here for two weeks. All my energy, time, thinking, and everything is going toward that.' Everything you're doing is building toward the score at the end.

I think winning the world tour events is pretty special. They're just so hard to win.

I just want to be able surf everything - from big waves to small waves.

There's a risk to everything you do. You can take off on a one-foot wave and get hurt; you can take off on a ten-foot wave and get hurt. You just don't think about it at all. You just go for it. When you kick out of a really big wave, it feels pretty damn good. You want to do it again.

I want to win a world title for sure. When I'm a little bit older, I'll have a lot of time to free-surf in my life. So I would love to win a world title.

I'm excited to go surfing every time. I have fun in any kind of wave in the ocean.

Winning a world title has always been the dream and ultimate goal.

Going to contests back to back, World Tour and Primes, I've noticed a lot more things with my surfing that could be improved for my heats to improve. Staying focused throughout all of those events for months at a time is hard to adjust to but definitely fun.

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